Da Nang

Let me wake you up in Da Nang. It’s six in the morning and My Khe beach, kilometers of pale sand, is already full of locals swimming before the heat sets in. You sit on a little plastic chair on the sidewalk and order a ca phe sua da, iced coffee with condensed milk, so good you want three, and look at the price: under a dollar. Behind you, green mountains; ahead, the sea. Da Nang is the rare balance nomads look for: an urban beach, low cost, fast internet and order, without the chaos of Vietnam’s big metros.

Da Nang in 30 seconds

It’s Vietnam’s third city, on the central coast, and it became the favorite of remote workers: clean, organized and with a huge beach within it. It has the best value in the country, fast internet and a growing international community. And, as a bonus, the magic of Hoi An: the historic town of lanterns, is 40 minutes away.

Where to stay, walking you through the areas

An Thuong / My An (“the beach area”): the nomad heart, steps from My Khe. Western cafés, coworkings, international restaurants and serviced apartments. Where the community concentrates and life is easiest for the newcomer.

My Khe (seafront): to wake up with a sea view, in modern buildings facing the beach. A little pricier, with a resort feel.

Son Tra Peninsula: more remote and green, with the Lady Buddha statue and monkeys on the trails. Quiet and nature, for people who want to step away from the buzz.

Center / Han River bank: the more local and cheaper side, with the markets, real Vietnamese life and the lit-up bridges (including the famous Dragon Bridge, which “breathes fire” on weekends).

The must-dos, what to do

• My Khe beach: kilometers of sand to swim, surf (in winter) or just relax. Your daily “pool”.
• Marble Mountains: five marble hills with caves, temples and viewpoints, just outside the city.
• Ba Na Hills and the Golden Bridge: the famous bridge “held by two giant hands”, atop a mountain reached by cable car. Touristy, but surreal.
• Son Tra Peninsula: the Lady Buddha, trails and hidden beaches, with a view of the city.
• Hai Van Pass: one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world, by scooter (the one from Top Gear).
• Hoi An: 40 minutes away, the historic town of lanterns, tailors and yellow shophouses, magical at night. A must.

The food, and the coffee

Vietnam is a culinary powerhouse, and Da Nang has its own stars: the mi quang (yellow noodles with shrimp and peanuts, the regional dish), the banh mi (the best sandwich in the world, for many), the bun cha ca (noodles with fish cakes) and very fresh seafood for almost nothing. And the coffee: Vietnam is the world’s second-biggest producer, and café culture is intense, from the iced ca phe sua da to the surreal egg coffee. Eating and drinking coffee here is dirt cheap and delicious.

A perfect day in Da Nang

A morning swim before the heat, an iced coffee on a sidewalk chair. A morning of work at a café with fast fiber (Vietnam’s internet surprises). Banh mi for lunch, a nap in the heat, surf or a scooter ride in the afternoon. At dusk, the Han River and its lit-up bridges. At night, a street market, grills, plastic chairs and ice-cold beer (bia hoi) for pennies. On the weekend, Hoi An and its lanterns. Cheap, tasty, full of energy.

What it costs and the practical stuff

You live well on US$ 770 to 1,210 a month: among the lowest costs in Asia: serviced apartments for US$ 300 to 500, street food for a couple of dollars and the cheap scooter. The internet is fast and friendly. One thing to watch: for more serious health issues, the reference is Bangkok or Singapore, a short flight away.

Getting around

• Scooter: the standard way to move around; rent by the month (very carefully in traffic).
• Grab: a ride app (car and bike), cheap, for anyone who doesn’t want to drive.
• On foot / bicycle: the seafront and the beach area are pleasant to walk and cycle.

Is Da Nang worth living in?

As a cheap, tasty, seaside base, with fast internet and Hoi An next door, Da Nang is one of the best experiences in Southeast Asia, perfect for a months-long season or as a node of a rotating lifestyle. The limit is the (short) visa and advanced healthcare, which means leaving the country. Knowing that, it’s addictive.

Da Nang is the favorite city of the Vietnam guide, where you’ll find how the e-visa works, the taxes and the other cities.