Chiang Mai

Let me welcome you to Chiang Mai the right way. You arrive in a city ringed by green mountains, with a historic center still protected by a 700-year-old moat and walls. The air smells of incense and frangipani, golden temples appear on every corner, and, surprise, inside that ancient city is one of the most sophisticated café scenes in the world, packed with people from all over working on laptops. Chiang Mai is that magical mix: history, mountains and the biggest digital-nomad community in Asia, all at a cost so low it feels like a joke.

Chiang Mai in 30 seconds

It’s Thailand’s second city, in the mountainous north, far calmer and cheaper than Bangkok. It has two souls: the Old City, of temples and lanes, and Nimman, the modern neighborhood where nomad life happens. You handle everything on foot or by scooter, make friends in a week and live very well on little. It’s, for most people, the best first destination for living in Asia.

Where to stay, walking you through the neighborhoods

Nimmanhaemin (Nimman): the nomad heart. Specialty cafés, coworkings, gyms, bars and modern apartments with pools. If you want community, convenience and a “big-city” feel at a small scale, it’s here. It’s the priciest area of Chiang Mai, which is still cheap.

Old City: inside the moat, among temples and guesthouses. More charming and touristy, with quiet lanes and the famous Sunday market. Great for anyone who wants history and to walk everywhere.

Santitham: right next to Nimman, but local and much cheaper. Thai food courts, markets and real neighborhood life. The pick for anyone who wants to save without isolating themselves.

Riverside (Wat Ket) and around (Hang Dong, Mae Rim): along the Ping River or already up the mountain, with bigger houses and villas, more green and quiet. For people who want nature and space, usually with a car/scooter.

The must-dos, what to do

• Doi Suthep: the golden temple high on the mountain that hugs the city. Go up at sunset: the view of Chiang Mai from up there is unforgettable.
• Old City temples: Wat Chedi Luang (the ruined giant) and Wat Phra Singh are the most beautiful; enter with respect and quiet.
• Sunday Walking Street: the Old City’s main street turns into a river of crafts, food and music. Go hungry.
• Ethical elephant sanctuary: spend a day with rescued elephants (choose a sanctuary that does not offer rides). Moving.
• Doi Inthanon: Thailand’s highest peak, with waterfalls and trails, a day trip from the city.
• A cooking class or Muay Thai training: two of the best ways to dive into the culture (and Muay Thai can even become your student visa).

The food, start with the khao soi

If you try one thing in Chiang Mai, make it the khao soi: a creamy, mildly spicy curry with noodles (part boiled, part fried crispy on top), typical of the north. Then go after the sai ua (the northern herby sausage), the khao kha moo (pork leg stewed over rice) and the fruit at the markets. And save time for the cafés: northern Thailand grows excellent coffee, and Chiang Mai has become a café paradise the envy of any capital.

A perfect day in Chiang Mai

It starts early, with a pour-over at a Nimman café and a few hours of work on fast fiber and air conditioning. For lunch, a khao soi for a couple of dollars at a hidden stall. In the afternoon, a Thai massage (for under ten dollars) or a scooter ride up to a mountain waterfall. At dusk, Doi Suthep to watch the city light up. At night, the market: skewers, juices, people from all over. You head home relaxed, with money to spare, wondering why you didn’t come sooner.

What it costs and the practical stuff

You live very well on US$ 780 to 1,260 a month: a modern apartment with a pool costs US$ 300 to 500, eating on the street costs a couple of dollars, and the scooter is cheap. The internet is great, there are coworkings everywhere, and Chiang Mai has international-standard hospitals at low prices.

Getting around

• On foot: the Old City is fully walkable.
• Scooter: the most practical and cheapest way to move around (drive carefully and with a helmet).
• Grab / Bolt: cheap ride apps for when you don’t want to drive.
• Songthaew: the shared red pickups, the classic local transport.

Is Chiang Mai worth living in?

For anyone who works remotely and wants community, nature, culture and a very low cost, it’s hard to find a better place in the world, which is why it’s the nomad capital. The only downside is the burning season. If you’re starting your life in Asia, start here.

Chiang Mai is one of the cities in the Thailand guide, where you’ll find the visas (including the 5-year DTV), the taxes and the other cities.